written by Bill Fultz

edited by Christopher Morris

all photography credit to Bill Fultz & Fultz Fotos

 

Hello and welcome to the first installment of the Arch Trip!  Kentucky has a claim that no other state can make, the second highest concentration of natural arches and bridges in the United States!  Only Utah has more! Scattered across the Bluegrass, there are over 1600 arches and natural bridges and more are being discovered almost daily.  The highest concentration of these unique landforms can be found in both the Red River Gorge region of the Daniel Boone National Forest as well as in McCreary County near Tennessee.  By comparison, there are several arches in McCreary County that are far larger than any of the ones found in the Red River Gorge, but that has no bearing on anything.  Both areas have natural features that are both beautiful and unique.  Before we dive into the trip, let us take a moment and understand how something is called an arch or a natural bridge and discuss the threats that face these incredible geological structures.

 

Definition

For a long time, I was not aware that there was a difference between a natural arch and a natural bridge.  A natural arch is created by wind and rain, a natural bridge is created by running water. There are a couple of exceptions to this naming, notably Natural Bridge and Sky Bridge in the Red River Gorge region.  Both really should have the word ‘arch’ at the end of their names. I noticed at the parking area at Natural Bridge State Park it does, in fact, say Natural Bridge Arch.

 

Conservation and Preservation

Kentucky’s arches and natural bridges have taken thousands and thousands of years to evolve and are still evolving through our lifetimes, though in most cases it is not noticeable. Eventually, due to erosion these natural wonders will collapse and become a pile of rubble.  One would think the greatest threat to arches and bridges are the forces of nature, but they are not. Sadly, humans are their greatest enemy. If you have ever walked across Sky Bridge or Natural Bridge, one thing that catches your eye is the thousands of etchings that scatter the deck (lintel).  Though individually these etchings are small, as a whole this is a massive acceleration of erosion and destruction. Rock that would have taken hundreds of years to erode only took a handful of minutes with the use of a pocket knife. If etching were not enough, throughout the state the problem of spray paint is a real issue.  Within the last couple of years, the base of Sky Bridge was spray painted multiple times, but has since been removed by volunteers. Sadly, less popular arches don’t get that kind of care. Evidence of spray paint can be seen on several remote arches throughout the state, but the worst I have seen is Apex Arch (pictured below) in Christian County.  Located on private land, the arch itself is a beautiful thin sliver of rock where the entire surrounding landscape, as well as the arch itself, has spray paint on it. Oh, and there was a ridiculous amount of trash everywhere too, which has also been the case at many arches I have visited in the state. Often times if there is a lot of trash, there is also a fire ring and burnt debris under the arch.  Though camping is not allowed within rock recesses or under arches throughout the Daniel Boone National Forest, many choose to ignore this. All camping within the National Forest is to be 300 feet from the cliff line. Fire is especially damaging to sandstone as it heats up the rock causing it to become brittle and break off. The fire will also char up the rock turning the beautiful red and yellow hues to black.  Last year when we hit eleven arches in Laurel and Whitley Counties over a weekend, we dismantled seven stone fire rings that were directly under them. Keeping in mind what I've mentioned, I would like to encourage everyone who visits these natural arches and bridges to be mindful of these threats. If you see trash, pack it out. If you see a fire ring, dismantle it, throwing the rock about and dispersing what's been burnt. Woodpile next to the fire pit?  Disperse it as well throwing it where it will get wet in the rain. If you come across someone camped out under an arch, kindly explain to them that it is against National Forest Rules to do so. Together we can protect our beautiful natural landforms and educate others so we can enjoy them for generations to come!

The heavily spray painted and trashed up Apex Arch in Christian County

 

For our first arch trip, we will take an abbreviated tour in the Red River Gorge.  The Red River Gorge region is home to over 700 confirmed and documented arches and natural bridges.  At first, I thought about sharing some lesser known locations, but most of those are off the beaten path and directions and descriptions are a bit more difficult to be accurate with.  Also, Bill Patrick has seven volumes of DVD's featuring GPS locations and photos of many of the lesser known arches in the Red. A handy tool for any arch enthusiast or for someone who likes a payoff along a hike.  I will supply a link at the end of the trip to his website for those who are interested.  Keep in mind that the Red River Gorge is a dangerous place if one is not careful. Sheer sandstone cliffs are found throughout the forest and many have died being irresponsible. That being said, on this adventure, we will stick to the more popular arches that reside mainly in the southern section of the region.  So let us begin!

 

Gray's Arch

Winter At Grays Arch From The Rock Shelter Below

 

Early Fall Under The Arch

 

Of all the 100 arches I have visited, Grays Arch is my all time favorite!  There is something really cool about standing far below and staring up at this massive beauty!  To get there, from KY 15, turn north onto Tunnel Ridge Road which will take you over the Burt T Combs Mountain Parkway.  About 1 mile on your right, is the trailhead parking and picnic area for Grays Arch. The hike to Grays is a 1.5-mile moderate one-way hike.  Though the trail is mostly level the final .5 mile of the hike has a decent elevation change with several steps.  The Grays Arch trailhead is located at the picnic area, you will pass by the restrooms and follow the trail .3 miles to where it intersects with the Rough Trail.  Turn right here.  Eventually, the trail will begin to descend.  For those who don't want to make the trek down the steps, there will be an overlook of the arch on the right, though the view is not that great.  If you want to visit the arch continue down the trail and make your way down the series of steps.  At the base of the last flight of steps, you'll pass an intersecting trail to the left and continue straight.  Above to your left, you can see the arch.  Follow the trail which will bear left at the railing and you will ascend a series of steps for views directly beneath the arch.  Return to the parking lot the way you came.

 

For more information about Gray's Arch, just click here.

 

Map of Trail to Gray's Arch

 

Rock Bridge
 
The unique Rock Bridge stretching over Swift Camp Creek
 
 
Just around the corner from Rock Bridge is the lovely Creation Falls
 
 
Rock Bridge is one of the coolest features in The Red River Gorge area and there is a nearby waterfall too!  Technically the bridge is located in the Clifty Wilderness. Though not as majestic as Sky Bridge Arch or Natural Bridge Arch it makes up for it in its location and overall scenery.  From the Grays Arch, Parking Lot head back out to KY 15 and turn left.  When KY 15 meets KY 715 turn left onto 715.  After crossing over Mountain Parkway look for a gravel road on the right, this is Rock Bridge Road.  Follow Rock Bridge Road 3 miles to the end which has a circle parking lot with bathrooms in the center.  The trailhead for Rock Bridge is here and you have two options.  Being that the trail is a moderate 1.25-mile loop, you can choose the trailhead furthest from the restrooms or you can choose the one closest to the restrooms.  Me personally, I like heading out the trail closest to the restrooms and that is the direction we will use for our trip.  The trail begins at a near level pace but eventually begins a steep but manageable decent.  At the bottom, the trail intersects with the Swift Camp Creek Trail which leads off to the left.  The Rock Bridge trail goes to the right and that's the direction you want to go.   The trail will gradually descend and meet along Swift Camp Creek on the left.  You will see some paths going creek side, these paths offer a view of Rock Bridge stretching over the creek.  Continue along the trail and you will pass by the base of the bridge and just beyond offers more views of this unique landform.  While viewing the arch you may hear the sound of falling water nearby. That is because just around the corner is the beautiful Creation Falls.  Continue along the trail a short distance and it will lead you to an overlook which will view the falls from above.  You can also make your way down to the creek just before the overlook for access to the bse.  During the rainy season the falls is beautiful but during drier times it will become but a trickle.  In the summer the splash pool at the base of the falls is a popular swimming hole. To return to the parking lot, pass the waterfall on the main trail and make the ascent to the parking lot or return the way you came.
 
For more information about Rock Bridge, just click here.
 
Map of Trail to Rock Bridge
 
 
 
Sky Bridge

Sky Bridge on a beautiful Autumn morning

 
Another shot of Sky Bridge on a gorgeous Spring day
 
Both impressive and easily accessible, Sky Bridge is probably the most popular destination in the Red River Gorge.  That being said, do not be surprised to see a full parking lot on a summer weekend.  Though it can be crowded, if you have not been to this gorgeous natural feature it is a must see.  From the Rock Bridge trailhead, drive Rock Bridge Road back to KY 715 and make a right at approximately 4.4 miles.  As you drive, notice on the left you'll pass Chimney Top Rock Road and the trailhead parking for both Angel Windows and Whistling Arch.  In the apex of a downhill sharp right curve, turn left onto Sky Bridge Road.  The parking for the bridge is less than a mile.  Along the way, there are several pull-offs for overlooks which are worth having a look at, including the Devil's Canyon Overlook. The trailhead for Sky Bridge is at the end of the parking lot and is about a 1-mile loop hike.  For the most part, the trail is easy except for the roughly 75 steps back up to the parking lot along the trail.  Honestly, I've started walking the trail backward walking down the steps, it is a much easier hike that way.  For this post though, we will go the normal way where the trail takes you across the top of the bridge for views across the Red River Gorge.  The trail continues out the ridge, slopes down and makes a hard right taking you below the cliff line. Here you will pass along the underside of the arch and eventually come to the 75 steps that lead back up to the parking lot.  Be sure to notice all the interesting textures in the cliff as you make your way to the arch.
 
For more information about Sky Bridge, just click here.
 
Map of Trail to Sky Bridge
 
 
 
Angel Windows
 
A view of both the Angel Windows
 

The North Window resembles a grazing horse

 

From Sky Bridge head back out Sky Bridge Rd and veer right up the hill.  After a short distance, you'll see a parking area on the right for Whistling Arch.  Though not a part of this tour, the trail here is fairly easy 0.3-mile hike to the arch.  The Whistling Arch really isn't all that impressive but if you follow the trail beyond the arch there's a nice overlook that's also a decent sunset spot.  Continue past the Whistling Arch parking area soon you will pass the trailhead parking lot for Swift Camp Creek and Rough Trail and shortly after is the parking area on your right for Angel Windows.  The trail to Angel Windows is a 0.3 mile easy/moderate hike. Though these twin arches are not that big, they are still very cool. If you stand in the right place the right arch resembles a horse grazing.  In springtime/early summer Firepink can be seen around the base of the arches.

 

For more information about Angel Windows, just click here.

 

Map of Trail to Angel Windows

 
 
Princess Arch
 
 

From the Angel Windows parking lot, continue on KY-715 and look for Chimney Top Road on the right and turn on it.  Follow the gravel road approximately 5 miles till you come to a circle parking lot with a restroom in the center. There are two trailheads here, the one on the left when you enter the parking lot is for Chimney Top Rock.  The one on the right of the lot is the trailhead for Princess Arch. The Princess Arch trail sign says it is a .5 mile hike to the arch but it is less than that and for the most part it's an easy trek. The trail brings you over the top across the arch but if you look to your left before you reach the deck you'll see a short side trail that will take you to some great views of the arch from below. Though not massive by any means, it is a beauty.  If you continue along the lower trail a short distance past Princess Arch there is Little Princess Arch, a 21 foot by 6-inch arch forming under a small recess. A good time to visit Princess Arch is in the late day when a low sun in the sky will illuminate the sandstone on and around the arch creating a beautiful golden scene.

 

For more information about Princess Arch, just click here.

 

Map of Trail to Princess Arch & Chimney Top

 
 
Chimney Top
 

An obstructed sunset from Chimney Top Rock

 

Since you are at Princess Arch you might as well go across the parking lot and visit Chimney Top Rock and it is a fairly easy .5 mile of a hike.  If you have ended your day at Princess Arch, looking for a great place to watch a sunset or just like a good overlook this is the place to do it! Offering a ridiculous 300 degree plus view, to the left you can see Half Moon Rock, to the front left is Hanson's Point, straight ahead is Pinch'em Tight Gap and to the right is the Red River and the Red River Gorge.  Chimney Rock is a pillar that is separated and stands about eight away from and about eight feet ft below the main cliff. The separation is difficult to see from above. Keep in mind this is a dangerous place. Keep your children and pets close. There are rails in place for a reason. Many folks have died crossing the rails and attempting to jump to or return from the chimney.  Mostly it is returning from, as someone would have to jump eight feet up in the air and eight feet across the separation to make it safely.

 

For more information about Chimney Top, just click here.

 

So that's it for the Arch Trip, Volume 1!  Remember when in the Red River Gorge or anywhere in our National Forests and National Parks to practice Leave No Trace.  Take only pictures, leave only footprints. Keep your eyes peeled for the Arch Trip, Volume 2 where we will take a trip to Carter Caves State Park and one of the largest arches in the eastern United States!

 

You can check out Bill Patrick's DVD's over at Red River Gorge Arches or the link above, 'RRG Arches'.

written by Bill Fultz

all photography credit to Bill Fultz & Fultz Fotos

 

Hello and welcome to The Arch Trip Volume 2!  The last trip we spent some time running around the Red River Gorge, for this trip we will find us to the north for a visit to Carter Caves State Park!  Carter Caves is home to numerous arches and natural bridges both on and off-trail but we are going to stick to the 6 on trail arches and a couple of surprises.  Now, let's talk about the park before we head into arching!

Carter Caves is quite possibly the coolest park in the Kentucky Park System!  Besides the arches, Carter Caves features several caves available for tour. Two are year-round guided tours, X Cave and Cascade Caverns, and there are numerous seasonal guided cave tours as well as two seasonal self-guided cave tours.  There are also several seasonal waterfalls throughout the park. Lastly, Carter Caves is a Resort Park, with a motel, cabins, large camping area, miles of hiking trails and a 9 hole golf course. Here is a link to learn more about Carter Caves! 

There are a couple of different ways to approach visiting the arches at Carter Caves. One is to take the 3 Bridges Trail, a 3.5-mile moderate loop trail that begins at the visitor center which takes you past three of the six bridges in the park: Fern Bridge, Raven Bridge, and Smoky Bridge.  The other option is you can drive to each one, which is what we are going to do for this trip. So let us begin!

Carter Caves is located 4.3 miles driving distance north of I-64 near Olive Hill, Kentucky and you will enter the park from State Route 182.  Notice the landscape along the park road is immediately distinctive. At 0.5 miles the road curves to the left and there is a pull-off to the right.  If you want to see a cool waterfall, and if there has been enough rain, pull over here. Nearby is the location of Horn Hollow Cave Falls. There is potential to get your feet wet here as you have to cross Cave Branch and follow along or up the side stream that enters directly across from the pull off.  By now you should be able to see the waterfall cascading out of Horn Hollow Cave. Up close inspection reveals some really cool colors in the rock and you really can not beat a waterfall emerging from the rock from out of nowhere.

 

The unique Horn Hollow Cave Falls emerges from Horn Hollow Cave.

 

Continue on the entrance road and look for the Visitor Center on your right as you ascend a hill.  You’ll definitely want to stop here. There’s lots of information on the caves, the trails, and the bridges, a park map is a must.   Across the street from the parking area is the trailhead for the 3 Bridges Trail if you decide to visit some of the arches that way. The trailhead for Natural Bridge is located at this parking lot as well.

 

The Natural Bridge of Carter Caves

The entrance to the Natural Bridge closest to the Visitor Center. Also, the opening above is Arch KY-8.

 

The Entrance to the Natural Bridge furthest from the Visitor Center.

If you walk to the left facing the visitor center you’ll find the trailhead for Natural Bridge which starts out as a road to the picnic and shelter rental area.  You’ll pass to the left of all that and pick up an actual trail that follows along a stream where you’ll come to the entrance to the bridge. The bridge is an impressive sight as centuries upon centuries of running water cut a curved passage through the limestone.  While under the bridge if you hear the sound of a passing car it is because there is a road built across it. Notice near where you entered above the right wall there is a skylight in the bridge. It in itself is considered an arch. The bridge will curve to the left and beyond that opposite entrance, you’ll see a trail that follows up to the left.  This trail will take you to the road above that crosses the bridge. The trail continues for a short distance on the other side of the road for some views of the creek below. Remember to watch out for that skylight, wouldn’t want to fall through it!

 

If you are not feeling the .5 mile hike to the bridge you can drive thereby exiting the visitor center parking lot and turning right on the entrance road of the park. After passing a road that goes to the left you’ll see a pull-off on the left and right.  Park here for a trail that starts at the left pull off that takes you down to the bridge.

 

More Information

 

Fern Bridge

 

 
A view of Fern Bridge from the stream bed below.
 
 
Bryan Janosick poses under the towering Fern Bridge.
 
Fern Bridge is another bridge that is an impressive sight.  Though at 45 feet across, its height is 110 ft making it the tallest known bridge in the state.  It is one of the three arches located along the 3 bridges trail. From the visitor center turn right onto the main entrance road and turn onto the first road on the left.  At the top of the hill, you will come to a spread-out 4-way intersection, turn left towards the cottages. Once at the cottages, as you keep to the right, look for parking on the left. Park closest to the last two cottages.  The trailhead for Fern Bridge is located by walking down the hill between the last two cottages, 246 and 247. Though a short .3 mile hike the trail is moderate and requires several rock steps and some rock negotiation as you get closer to the bridge. Be careful in freezing temperatures as ice can freeze on the trail.  The trail approach from below the cliff line where you will see a wooden footbridge. Above is the natural bridge. During wetter times water will be dripping onto the footbridge and through the watershed relatively small I have been told during a major rain event there can be a full drape of water falling from above. I will also point out that Fern Bridge is one of my favorite arches in the state and when you see if for yourself I think you will agree. Return to the car the way you came.
 
 
 
Raven Bridge
 
Late evening light on Raven Bridge
 
From the Cottage area, return to the 4-way intersection and make a hard left onto Caveland Drive and go towards the Lodge. The road will drop down through the lodge parking area and continue just past it, to the left will be the parking area for the trailhead for Raven Bridge.  Park there. The trailhead is just across the road, you will see the sign. The hike is a fairly easy .6 mile trek to the bridge and depending on recent rainfall there are a couple of waterfalls the trail will pass by on the way there. You will arrive at the bridge which will be on the right from above.  There are some cool views here but continue along the path where to the right is an overlook for the arch. Follow the stairs down through the rock for views of the bridge from down below.
 
 
 
Smoky Bridge
 

In the distance through Smoky Bridge on the left, you can see the steps down to the base showing it’s an impressive size.

To get to Smoky Bridge you don’t even have to go back to your car, just walk by it!  Return the way you came, once you are close to the parking area a side trail to the left will pass behind the Lodge and down the hill and connect the 3 Bridges Trail.  Make a right and continue down to the bridge. Once close to the bridge there is a trail to the right or the trail continues straight. Either one leads to the base. The right will take you out along the canyon and drop below and bring you back along a watershed and eventually under the bridge.  Going straight will take you across the bridge and then follow the trail and steps to the right and it will take you to its base. Prepare yourself, it’s one of the most impressive looking arches in the eastern US. Return to the lodge and where your car is parked.

 

More Information

 

 

 

Shangra La Bridge

 

Looking out the entrance to Shangra La Bridge.

 

 

The rear entrance of Shangra La Bridge.  Notice the touch of neon pink spraypaint to the right of the entrance.

 

Since it is there I’m going to throw in Shangra La Bridge.  As a photographer, I am not all that fond of this one, but it is not that far of a walk and whatever floats your boat you may like it.  From the lodge parking lot drive up to the 4-way intersection and turn left onto Smoky Lake Lane. You’ll pass the campground to the right, continue down the hill until you see a road on your right and turn onto it.  This road leads to a boat ramp and the 4C’s trailhead. The trailhead will be to the right of the end of the road. The hike to the bridge is less than a ½ mile. As you begin your trek the trail will split, keep right here.  In approximately 0.3 of a mile, you will enter the mouth of the bridge. It’s almost a tunnel in design. Notice the rock, how it layers along the wall and how the rock scatters the floor. The 4C’s trail continues through the arch or you can go back to the car for our next destination.

 

More Information

 

Cascade Bridge
 
 

Cascade Bridge is actually not located inside the main park.  If you really want to go all out I suggest taking the Cascade Caverns Guided Tour.  It’s a great tour with a cave waterfall and some cave natural bridges (see photo below), seems to me it might be an hour tour.  Well worth it. Cascade Bridge is located on the Box Canyon Trail and it might be the best hike in the park. Box Canyon is cool in itself.


To get there head back to the main entrance and make a right onto KY 182.  At the top of the hill make a right onto KY 209 and look for a sign for Cascade Caverns and a parking lot on the left.  The trailhead is for the Box Canyon Trail is located at the back right of the parking lot at the outbuilding. Beyond the outbuilding, you’ll see two trails.  On that goes to the right and one that goes to the left. The one to the right leads to the entrance to Cascade Caverns. It is a locked steel door and only the state park has the key.  The trail to the left leads to Cascade Bridge and Box Canyon and becomes a 0.8-mile moderate loop hike. On your way to the loop, you’ll notice the exit from Cascade Caverns down some stairs to the left. More than likely you won’t notice where the loop begins, where a trail comes in from the right.  If you notice it, you know what it is and continue forward. About .3 of a mile into the loop the trail ascends to the cliff line. Before you are Cascade Bridge. Years ago the first time I walked this trail I didn’t even notice it was a bridge and the reason why? Well, it does not stand out as a bridge as it closely hugs the cliffside. Even so, it is still an impressive sight.  The trail will pass to the right of the bridge and proceed along the cliff line. As you continue, notice the landscape is becoming even more interesting and within no time you find yourself at Box Canyon. It is immediately obvious why it got its name. The trail will follow along the base of the canyon wall then loop around and up the hillside to finally descend down to meet up to tie the loop.  Turn left and follow the trail back to your car.

 

The Natural Bridges in Cascade Caverns, one is in the very foreground the other is on the opposite side of the opening.

 

More Information

 

So that’s it for this arch trip folks!  Join us next time when we find ourselves somewhere in Laurel, Whitley or McCreary County for some adventure!