With Kentucky having the highest concentration of Natural Arches other than Utah, it would only make sense that Kentucky also has the largest arch East of the Mississippi River.  Located a little less than an hour northeast of Paducah near the Ohio River is the Mantle Rock Nature Preserve.  Inside the preserve is its namesake, a massive 154 foot long alcove arch with a 30 foot tall opening. The nature preserve is a certified site on the Trail Of Tears National Historic Trail.  Approximately 1,800 Cherokee wintered in this area while being forcefully displaced to Oklahoma. That winter of 1838-1839 they were forced to wait along the road near the arch because the Ohio River was frozen and impassable.  It was bitterly cold and it is said many Cherokee died waiting for the river to thaw. There is probably a good chance that some Cherokee made the shelter of Mantle Rock their temporary home during that time.

For more history check out the Nature Preserve's website.

For a map of the Trail of Tears, check out the NPS website that has a really nice one.

A view of Mantle Rock from 1914 (a postcard courtesy of Todd Fife):

A modern view of Mantle Rock:

© Bill Fultz

Mantle rock nature preserve. The Nature Conservancy. (n.d.). Retrieved January 29, 2022, from https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/places-we-protect/mantle-rock-preserve/

A common assumption when camping in the Daniel Boone Forest is that it is legal to build a fire and camp under an arch. This is a big NO.  In the National Forest it is illegal to camp within 100 feet of a cliff line, where most arches are found. Besides the legal complications of camping under an arch, the damage to the rock itself is catastrophic.  There are over 30 arches in the Daniel Boone National Forest that are being exposed to fire and camping every season because of their easy access. It is important to understand how fire damages arches.  Most arches in Kentucky are made of sandstone.  Unlike harder stone, sandstone erodes much quicker than most other rock because it is composed of compressed sand.  When exposed to fire the sandstone blackens, becomes brittle, and breaks off, accelerating the eventual collapse of the arch. What can we do to help deter this activity?  I have read where folks have run across people camping and burning a fire under an arch. 95% of the time these folks have no clue what they are doing is illegal. Even if you are irate, kindly mention that it is illegal to camp under the arch.  Explain what they are doing to the arch.  If they get belligerent, move on.  In most cases you will come across the remnants of the fire event long after the folks have left.  Often there is a fire ring.  What most of us do is take the rocks of the firepit and disperse them over the hill (there’s almost always a hill next to an arch). If there is wood piled under the arch, disperse it away from the arch as well. As mentioned in the Apex Arch post last week, trail cameras are not an option. The Forest Service has limited funds and can not afford it, and for a private citizen to put up a trail cam is illegal without permission. Unfortunately our only option, for right now, is to disperse the remains and make it more difficult to camp and build fires under arches.

Below are several examples of firepits and fire damage to arches.

A fire ring under Buffalo Arch:

© Bill Fultz

A fire pit under Daylight Twin East Arch:

© Bill Fultz

A fire pit under Friendship Arch:

© Christopher Morris

Fire scarring on the arch at Hole in the Rock Arch:

© Bill Fultz

Fire scarring and damage to Hollow Rock Arch KY 50:

© Bill Fultz

Fire scarring to the underside of Lost Arch:

© Bill Fultz

A fire pit under a private property arch:

© Bill Fultz

The remains of a fire in an alcove under Princess Arch:

© Wayne Suké

The remains of a fire pit under Schoolhouse Arch:

© Bill Fultz

Fire scarring on the underside of Skeleton Cave East Arch:

© Bill Fultz

The remains from a fire under Whistling Arch:

© Bill Fultz

The Red River Gorge has become quite possibly the most popular place in the state for outdoor recreation and is world famous for its beautiful arches.  At this time there are 1,157 confirmed arches in the region. Though many arches have been officially documented in the last 30 years due to the hard work of folks, such as Larry Peterson and Bill Patrick (both of whom we will feature later this month) as well as those who submitted locations to them, arch hunting has been going on in The Gorge for 80 years.  Dr. Carl Clark and Clarence Henson are mentioned in Robert Ruchhoft’s 1976 book “Kentucky’s Land Of Arches - The Red River Gorge” as having been “exploring the Red River Gorge for over three decades.” He thanked them both in the acknowledgements for their knowledge of the area and their help. His book is the earliest known publication dedicated to Kentucky’s Arches.  Then there were folks like legendary forest ranger Don Figg.  While out there exploring the landscape, he was also setting the groundwork for Wolfe County Search and Rescue.  There are others that we are just learning about.  Dell Sasser, a former naturalist at Natural Bridge State Park; Alan Cornette; Dan Dourson, a former ranger; John and Cynthia Robinson who discovered and rediscovered Sky View Arch; and Raymond Bryant who documented many arches and led group hikes to them.  Jerry Bennett had a cabin as a base camp in Wolfe County.  He would go on to document a wealth of arches in the region.  There is a rich history of great people who laid the groundwork for arching in the Red River Gorge. Many have passed on, but thankfully there are many more who are still alive. There are arches that were found that have been lost again waiting to be rediscovered. For those arches which have stayed found, there are stories about those who discovered them that still need to be told. There is an adventure in the history of Kentucky’s arches that awaits us.  After Arch Awareness month ends we plan to still bring the stories of these folks to light on both the website and here in the group.

Featured above is a photo of an original copy of Robert Ruchhoft’s book “Kentucky’s Land Of Arches - The Red River Gorge” (courtesy Todd Fife).  The revised edition can be easily found online for $10.  There are three editions: the 1976 edition, a 1986 revised edition, and a 2009 ‘millennium’ edition. The 1986 edition is the most readily available edition.  Robert Ruchoft will also have a feature later this month on his contributions to arching in Kentucky..

Is it an arch or a natural bridge?

As many of you are aware we talk a lot about arches in this group, but we have never really discussed the difference between a natural arch and a natural bridge.  A little bit of confusion is thrown in because of what Natural Bridge and Sky Bridge are named in the Red River Gorge.  When we are saying there are now 2,500 documented arches in the Arch Database we are including natural bridges in that number. Technically a natural bridge is still an arch.  In most cases an arch is formed by wind and rain or also called weathering.  There are some fracture type arches which are associated with geological movement.  A Natural Bridge is formed by running water.  That water doesn’t necessarily have to be constantly flowing either. The most well known true natural bridge in the state is Rock Bridge in the Red River Gorge which also happens to be the best example. Where some confusion comes in are in the cases of Natural Bridge Arch and Sky Bridge Arch.  Often when folks are joining the group and they answer the participation question “What is your favorite arch?” they will respond with “It’s not an arch but a Natural Bridge.”  Truth is Natural Bridge is an arch. The reason for this anomaly is that Natural and Sky Bridges were both named prior to the modern standard of classification.  Both are shelter type arches.

Below are examples of a natural bridge and an arch.

Rock Bridge:

© Christopher Morris

Natural Arch:

© Bill Fultz